We knew that the chances of Miriam becoming a hurricane were very low as we drove into La Paz, however that did not stop it bringing heavy amounts of rain to the city. 50km or so out, heavy rains and wind lashed our top heavy car as we wound around mountain roads, on one hand making some nerve-wracking driving (the locals still do not slow down), on the other hand meant that several weeks of dust were at last washed off the car. Mother natures touchless car wash.
As we approached the city limits, the evidence of the lack of rain on this city in general was evident. Streets were pooling water, roads were flooded and the locals were not sure how to drive through. One family had flooded their engine with uncompressable water when they took their coupe through water too deep. Everyone else, even those in pickups, were unsure about crossing after witnessing that mistake. Having seen water crossings like this in places such as Australia's Kimberley region, I was confident in Loretta's ability to easily wade through with care, the problem was that cars on both sides of the road blocked us being able to get through as they drove to any empty spot of the road to take a look but then not committing to a crossing.
Eventually someone at the front in a larger vehicle led the way and allow the trucks and larger cars to start crossing. This was not one stream crossing the road, just the first of many that over the few days we were in La Paz led to serious road erosion and potholes being formed. As we neared the city centre, the city sewers were bursting through manhole covers, creating what I referred to as a turd fountain.
The city was by no means prepared for this type of weather - the streets had no form of drainage and what did not run off into the sea pooled on the streets and roads until the sun would evaporate the water. However for us there was little problem getting around - Loretta was factory built for official depths of 50cm, but as we had raised the car through bigger tyres and stronger suspension, and that the air intake was at the top of the bonnet, realistically we could cross anything up to about a meter and a half (though that may result in water getting into the cabin. The problem that we encountered could actually have ended up being far more serious than what actually happened two days after arriving in the town.
We had been staying at a new hotel in the city centre for a couple of days and the rains were still coming down. I had hoped to venture out of the city for a couple of days of kite surfing but with the heavy rain decided to stay put. On Friday night we had been in our room and at around 8:30pm the concierge from the front desk knocked on our door and said that we had to move our car. I assumed that it was blocking someone, despite parking at the rear of the car park next to the neighbours wall. As I walked outside there were several people standing around, which was strange given the quiet street we were. As I turned the corner I was confronted with a gaping hole in the neighbours 30 foot stone wall. In front of me was a mass of rocks and boulders that had given way from the rain and lack of drainage. The wall had collapsed onto our car and another Land Cruiser in the lot. In effect, our car had prevented the wall from tumbling further.
Parked nose to the wall and boulders behind the car, there was little way to manoeuvre the car out and aside from which, despite the locals telling me to move the car before the rest of the wall collapsed, I was hesitant about getting into a car that appeared to be supporting several ton of rock. If the rest of the wall gave way, the chances were that it would either trap or crush me in the cabin. Shortly after some emergency services turned up. We were told it was the fire department, but rather it was four men in a pick-up. The photos and video below do more to tell the story of getting Loretta out than I could describe and given context to the situation. Amazingly, apart from dented and scratched panels, she works as before and it appears that the Mexican insurance we bought are going to cover the damage. As for the other Land Cruiser? He was parked nose to the wall that gave way. He simply reversed his car out and apart from a smashed headlight, again everything worked fine. Unfortunately he did not have insurance and is likely to have a hard time getting money out of the owner of the collapsed wall.
So the three lessons learnt:
- Buy as much insurance as you can
- Land Cruisers appear indestructible
- Don't park near walls that appear poorly constructed
Cuba, as beautiful as the old colonial buildings, classic cars (despite the smelly exhaust), lush green landscapes, the vivacity for life, dancing, cigars and rum are, does show it's ugly side. Touters are constantly at you in the towns, hustlers trying to get you into some deal, it is often hard to know when people are genuine and want to chat, especially if they are sporting some kind of gold bling.
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